Duckmeat

But what about all those plucked bodies? Why, with the duvet boom, has the price of duckmeat not fallen to rock bottom, dipped below scrag and coley? Why do the kids not queue at chippies for ten pennorth of duck and a bag of beaks for the cat?

The menu grand-mère features all kinds of down-to-earth local dishes that a Périgourdine grandmother might be expected to turn out—such as canard Lucullus as an hors d’oeuvre, a thick slice of various bits of duckmeat, pressed in a roll, and filled with an intriguing variety of textures and flavours.

‘It got flies in it?’ Werth picks up the neat circular slice of duckmeat, waves it around, flap flap flap. / ‘Currants. Dried blackcurrants.’