Pizzamaker

Pizzaiolos can be fussy, and Jim McGown, a real estate developer and self-taught pizzamaker, is no different.

Popping open a stack of dough proofing containers in their walk-in refrigerator, Mr. Federighi revealed an overlapping stack of pizza skins — what pizzamakers call dough that’s been stretched but not yet topped — that were dry to the touch, with the texture of cured leather.