Tyropita

The cook comes out to join us after we’ve been served with large quantities of keftedes, tyropites, cheese, salad, fish, steak, melon and probably other plates which slipped by me unnoticed.

Try the tyropites (flaky pastry puffs filled with melting cheese) as a starter.

Then came Molyvos, where I ate dolmades and tyropites and grilled fish, remembering what it was like to sit on a hillside in Crete with the oregano-scented breezes blowing across your face as you looked at the wine-dark sea down below.