Viognier

In a contest, best value goes to the intensely densely fruited Western Range Julimar 2006 Shiraz/Viognier, where the white grape viognier adds lift to the dense red shiraz grapes.

Though the red we drank was fine with the dish, a white, like a rich viognier with a pedigree — a Condrieu, of course — suits it in far better style.